Biting PUPPY - NOT SO DANGEROUS THAT YOU THINK ...
The article is an excerpt from the book "Clicker Training for your dog."
All puppies bite!
You saw maybe how the puppies were playing with their litter mates when you picked it up at the breeder.
The tearing apart of the small razor-sharp puppy teeth.
Sometimes you hear a little scream from one of the puppies when the game gets too intense, and it pulls away maybe a little before throwing himself into the play again with relish.
This is completely natural puppy behavior as they continue when we get them in the house.
They can bite us in the fingers, arms and trouser legs or face if they get the chance.
Some puppies are more energetic than others, particularly young children may be frightened by this.
Adults dog owners have sometimes problems with excessive puppy biting.
The biggest problem is not really that one begins to attribute sinister intentions, many puppy and intentions.
Many actually believe that the little creature trying to be "boss" in the house, it tries to "test the leadership."
Others believe that their dog is directly "aggressive" - the bits after all!
How can this be when it grows up?
And then you risk doing something that is not really a problem to a very serious problem.
One begins to take him hard to teach him to "behave".
This can result in one of three different problems which really is just as serious.
Some puppies think it's okay to get all this attention when they begin to bite, so they continue with it.
Negative attention is often better than no attention.
To bite the owner's hands or leash is gradually becoming an established way to get attention for this dog, and you risk that it brings this behavior far beyond puppy age.
The ends may need to bite just as it is punished (it does if you give it a treat to bite too!), But not long after it started again.
They also risk the pup finds out that the father of the house, it pays not to bite.
The kids and wife on the other hand, only to help themselves.
Other puppies are so scared of being punished that they completely stop biting.
The ending also like to say hello or contact at all.
Dog owner will then often quite so happy at first, but the fact is that this is just as bad, for such puppies miss very valuable social learning, and it is often these dogs bite when they become adults.
The third variant is that puppies are so scared of being punished that they must defend themselves.
When the owner bent down to grab the puppy growls and bites it seriously - something quite different from the puppy biting.
Where the story has ended for too many, completely normal puppies who have not made any other errors than to end up with owners who did not know better.
The fact is that puppy biting is actually very useful!
When puppies bite each other, they learn a very important skill - bite inhibition.
They learn that the tooth hurts when you bite too hard.
If a puppy bites too hard the other puppy come with a little scream, and it will pull away slightly.
The other puppy then find that this was not such a good idea - "when I bite too hard will not the other puppy to play more with me."
And so it is more careful next time.
Then it is on the way to learn to control their teeth.
OK, puppy biting is natural, but still it's nice to get it under control.
Here are some suggestions.
Take control of biting puppy!
We can take care of around the same procedure as the puppies in the puppy pen when we put up our training schedule.
Have the puppy on your lap or play with it on the floor.
Let the bite as much as it will on your hands.
If the puppy is a bit careful of is you can actually encourage him to do it (most puppies do, however, all by itself as soon as they get the chance).
But just as the puppy bites a little harder than usual whimpering you high "AU", stand up and walk away for at least 20 seconds.
Do not say strictly "ouch", but more like a puppy cry - this puppy has a position to understand before.
Now, go back to the puppy and play some more with it.
As long as the puppy bites gently ("caution" must be defined for each puppy) continues to play, but as soon as it bites a little harder than usual to scream loud "Ouch!"
and goes away again.
When you see the puppy begins to understand the rules increase the requirements a bit.
Now accept only very gently biting.
Bits only slightly careless, you scream loud "AU", stand up and walk away - timeout!
After a few seconds, go back and play some more with the puppy again.
Eventually "tolerate" you even less before you scream "OUCH".
The puppy should be in a way get the feeling that you just become more and more squeamish and that it really must be careful of their teeth if it is to be with you.
Finally, you can take only that puppy just "sucks" on your hands.
You can also put other rules such as, for example, turns on the face means an end to the game.
The aim of these first two steps are not to teach your puppy not to bite at all - the goal is to teach it to nibble.
This bite inhibition training started in the litter box with litter siblings.
However, you must complete the training and teach the dog that the same rules also apply to people (people can actually even less!).
One can assume that the puppies are taken early from the rest of the litter need more training than puppies that will be extended by siblings and parents.
Step 3 - Option A
When the puppy is around three months should have learned that the teeth should be cautious.
Now, we eventually learn that the puppy does not need to bite at all.
We can do this on (at least) two ways.
We can only continue as in points 1 and 2
We can whine "Ouch", get up and go away the minute it puts teeth into us, albeit ever so gently.
As long as the puppy behave acceptably (not bits) we are enjoying it, it gets to be on our lap or we sit on the floor and play with it, it will chew on their toys, but people should not be bitten off.
Step 3 - option b
Once the puppy has first learned to nibble, we can also use the clicker to teach him not to bite at all.
This can be done as follows: encourage the puppy to bite (gently) in hand or sweater (if it needs encouragement, that is).
Be then passive.
Sit quietly and wait until the puppy accidentally let go of themselves - then the minute it is release and reward with the treat.
DO NOT cover it to avoid with the help of the treat - it teaches nothing.
Instead wait for the release of its own before you click and reward.
Then start the game again.
If your puppy bites you after a few seconds passive and click and reward in the same he lets go again.
You will eventually find that the puppy will not be so eager to bite your fingers even if it encourages it - click on that too!
When you start to click and reward for not bite even if you "urge" to do so, use the puppy to learn so fast that I actually advise to start with it right away, as it is important that it be allowed to learn to
nibble before it learns that it will not bite at all.
Instruct family members and visitors about the rules of the game: Hard biting = "AU"
and end all hugs and greetings.
If you have young children you can click and reward when the puppy goes to the child and care for the smell or just staying close in a decent manner.
If he is careless with the child will eventually be effective, you say high OUCH.
The dog will usually respond if you have done the ground work properly.
Older children may want to run level 3 option b on its own under your supervision.
Let them play with the puppy, be passive and click and reward when he lets go.
Then they can click and reward when your puppy refuses to bite even if they take their hands back and forth in front of the puppy and encourage it to bite.
Around 4-5 months of age often disappear puppy biting its own, as long as you have not given the necessary attention.
With systematic training disappears even earlier and you have full control over the phenomenon all the time.
And again - puppy biting is completely normal!
Tell that to your neighbor even if he complains about the "aggressive" or "vicious" her puppy!
What if the puppy has already bitten stuck in the pants to the two year old?
Should we just wait for the release of himself and then click?
No, of course not.
Take the puppy quiet away from the child away without scaring some of them.
Then you start training to teach the puppy how to behave around the baby.
Click and reward for careful investigation or when it is close to the child without worrying about it.
There is a difference in training and resolving emergency situations.
You should be good to stop puppy friendly and determined as soon as it makes things like tear down tablecloths, bite the cords or bother the kids in the family.
Once you've done that you should start thinking about how you can teach your puppy to do something else instead in these situations (being quiet, instead of stepping hysterically around the room, smell gently on the child rather than bite, be quiet
Instead of barking, etc.) The problem with many dogs is that the only "training" the dog receives is exactly as it does something illegal (emergency situation).
This has unfortunately nothing to do with effective dog training to do.
Your job as a dog owner is to work out in advance to avoid such situations!